Struggling to keep your turf edges from lifting? A perfect installation can be ruined by unsecured perimeters. I’ll show you exactly where to place spikes for a flawless, durable lawn.
You should apply turf spikes around the entire perimeter of the artificial grass, placing them every 6 to 8 inches. It’s also vital to secure any seams where two pieces meet by driving spikes into both sides to prevent separation and ensure a flat, uniform surface.
Getting the placement right is the first step, but it is not the only one. How you use the spikes, how many you need, and knowing when to use other methods are all equally important. These details can make the difference between an amateur job and a professional one. Let’s look closer at how to get this right for your project.
How to use artificial turf spikes?
Are you hammering spikes incorrectly and causing ugly dimples or damage to the turf backing? This is a common mistake. Let me show you the professional way to do it.
To use turf spikes correctly, drive them through the turf backing and into the sub-base. The spike head should be hammered just below the backing so it’s hidden by the grass fibers, but not so deep that it creates a visible pull or divot in the surface.
The technique you use for spiking is critical for a clean finish. I once visited a new installation where the team hammered the spikes in so forcefully that a line of small dips was visible all around the edge. It compromised the look of the entire project. We had to pull every spike and start over. Let’s break down the correct method to avoid this.
Preparations Before Spiking
First, make sure your artificial turf is fully stretched out and in its final position. It should be flat, with no wrinkles or bubbles. You cannot fix these issues after the spikes are in. Also, have the right tools ready. A standard hammer works, but I often prefer a rubber mallet to avoid damaging the spike heads or the turf itself.
The Correct Spiking Steps
Follow these steps for a perfect result:
- Expose the Backing: Gently separate the grass fibers right where you plan to place the spike. This is important because you want to avoid trapping the green blades under the spike’s head, which looks messy and unnatural.
- Position the Spike: Place the spike about one inch in from the turf’s edge.
- Hammer It In: Drive the spike straight down into the sub-base. Once it’s secure, brush the grass fibers back over the head. The goal is for the spike to be completely invisible. A common mistake is to drive it too deep, which creates a dimple. The spike head should sit flush with the backing.
How many spikes for artificial turf?
Are you unsure if you are using too many spikes, or even too few? Using the wrong amount can lead to loose edges that are a safety hazard or just a waste of money.
As a general rule, you should plan for one spike every 6 to 8 inches around the entire perimeter of your turf. For any seams, you should use the same spacing on both sides of the seam tape. I always recommend buying 10% extra just in case.
Calculating the right number of spikes is straightforward, but it depends on the specifics of your project. A client once tried to save a little money by spacing his spikes 24 inches apart. After the first heavy rain, we got a call that all the edges were lifting. It costs more to fix a mistake than to do it right the first time.
Calculating Your Spike Needs
To figure out how many spikes you need, start by measuring the total length of the outside edge of your installation. This is your perimeter. Then, measure the length of any seams you have.
- Perimeter Spikes: (Total perimeter length in inches) / 6 inches = Number of spikes needed.
- Seam Spikes: (Total seam length in inches x 2) / 6 inches = Number of spikes needed.
Remember to calculate for both sides of the seam.
When to Use More Spikes
The 6-inch rule is a great starting point, but some situations require more security. In these cases, I recommend reducing the spacing to every 4 inches.
| Application Area | Recommended Spacing | Why It’s Important |
|---|---|---|
| Perimeter Edges | 6-8 inches | Prevents lifting from foot traffic and weather. |
| Seams (Both sides) | 6-8 inches | Keeps seams tight and invisible. Prevents tripping hazards. |
| High-Traffic Zones | 4-6 inches | Provides extra security where the turf is stressed most. |
| Slopes/Hills | 4-6 inches | Prevents the turf from sliding or creeping downhill. |
What can I use to hold down artificial grass?
Do you think spikes are the only way to secure artificial turf? There are other effective methods, and sometimes, they are a much better choice depending on your project’s base.
Besides turf spikes, you can use turf adhesive, especially on solid surfaces like concrete or around putting greens. The weight of the sand infill also provides the main hold for the entire system, while bender boards can be used to create a solid frame for the perimeter.
The best securing method depends entirely on the surface you are installing on. You can’t hammer a spike into concrete, for example. In my experience, most professional installations, especially for sports fields, use a combination of methods to ensure the turf is secure, safe, and looks great for years.
Turf Spikes and Staples
These are the most common fasteners when you install turf over a compacted aggregate sub-base, like in a backyard or a playground. They are driven through the turf backing directly into the ground. Spikes are generally thicker and longer than staples, offering a more robust hold, which is why I prefer them.
Turf Adhesive
Turf glue is essential when working with hard surfaces. If you are installing turf on a concrete patio, rooftop, or an indoor facility, adhesive is the only way to secure the perimeter. We also always use adhesive with seam tape to create the strongest possible bond between two pieces of turf. This creates a bond that is actually stronger than the turf backing itself.
The Weight of Infill
Never underestimate the power of infill. For large installations, the sheer weight of the sand and rubber infill is what really holds the turf mat in place. We add several pounds of infill per square foot. This weight presses the turf down firmly against its base, preventing any movement or wrinkles. In this system, spikes are just used to lock the edges in place.
Conclusion
Properly securing your turf with spikes, glue, or infill weight is essential. The right technique and placement will guarantee a safe, beautiful, and long-lasting artificial grass surface for any project.
